SPRING / SUMMER
ZDDZ SS 2016 Help Yourself collection is a meditation on the idea of depression and how we cope with it. It’s a return to anxiety one goes through while coming of age – which often becomes a way of shaping our identities. It’s inspired by kids who spend their nights in techno clubs taking pills – but not the ones you’re thinking about. They’re into an imaginary antidepressant Zonax designer Dasha Selyanova invented with for this collection.
The slogans printed on jackets and longsleeves – Sleep Better Live Better, Love Your Nervous System – are borrowed from advertising campaigns of antidepressants in the US in the 70s – when people still believed pharmaceutical products could guarantee a better future. The message however is completely the opposite: don’t rely on pills to fix yourself.
The collection features the label’s signature oversized parkas, voluminous bomber jackets and elongated shirts. The hard square shapes are juxtaposed with transparent fishnet garments and elastic crop tops to evoke the youthful sensuality: shy yet daring. Tight cropped trousers reference the uniform of 90s clubbers. Thick denim jackets with ripped shoulders in washed out pink and soft choker dress are a perfect feminine look for the genderless era.
Help Yourself is a very personal statement – and yet speaks to all of us.
Photographer: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
We haven’t staged a classic catwalk show: models chilled around the club space. As in previous few seasons, we haven’t booked actual models for the show. This season we have done an Instagram casting and chose real people that we love to showcase the clothes.
The soundtrack was written by rising Moscow artists Zhenechka Bazarov. Show ended with the screening of video later premiered by Dazed Digital.
Photographer: Erik Panov
Photographer: Sasha Mademoiselle
Photographer: Masha Demianova
«In this collection I explored the ideas of depression and anxiety. It was triggered by my own depression and memories of being 17 and not knowing what to do with myself. I used to borrow other people’s identities and spend lots of time in clubs. I was also thinking about antidepressants, and the main message is that you don’t need pills to make you feel good. It’s about self-acceptance as well and being comfortable in your own skin. I like oversized silhouette because it gives me security. Stiffer heavier jersey and heavy cotton provide the protection everyone needs in an urban environment. I’m trying to explore the opposites: security and insecurity, being sexy and feeling protected as a woman. Every collection is like a research of human nature for me.»
Dasha Selyanova, ZDDZ Designer
Keywords for the season:
Help Yourself, depression, anxiety, insecurity, Zonax, antidepressants, club culture, techno, youth, protection, urban environment, Sleep Better Live Better, Love Your Nervous System
Black, white, washed out pink, red, burgundy, grey, pinstripe
Cut and shapes:
Oversized, straight fit, baggy trousers, tight crop tops, wraparound skirts in hard denim, tight knee shorts, fishnet overlay
Thick cotton, jersey, washed out hard denim, fishnet